Tuesday, January 5, 2010

The Strip's CityCenter hotels up the ante




High-tech touches and green innovations are set on a luxurious stage at the Vdara Hotel & Spa, Mandarin Oriental and Aria Resort & Casino.

Packed into 67 acres between the Monte Carlo and the Bellagio casino hotels, CityCenter is billed not just as the Las Vegas Strip's next evolutionary phase, but also as a spectacle capable of pulling the region's tourism from its death spiral.

Yet with nearly 5,900 new luxury hotel rooms to fill, that spiral may be intensifying. Between Dec. 1 and 16, the developers unveiled the 1,495-guest room Vdara, the 392-guest room Mandarin Oriental, and the 4,004-guest room Aria Resort & Casino and its 17 restaurants and cafes.

As a whole, the hotels offer a template for 21st century Vegas; it's the locus of sophisticated recreation for the well-heeled brainiac. Stuffed with whiz-bang technology, cutting-edge green operations and urbane décor, the hotels create a new kind of wonderland where pampered lifestyles tread softly on the planet's resources.

Vdara and the Mandarin Oriental offer a respite from sensory overload with casino-free lodging. The centerpiece, Aria Resort & Casino, provides an orgy of deluxe gambling, dining and people-watching.

The complex is connected by sometimes-confusing ramps, escalators and a three-station monorail, which make the place look more like a futuristic airport than a distillation of Manhattan. Without the chaos of taxis, office workers and urban grit, many areas feel more like a fantasy Manhattan, a sort of Theme Park for Rich People.

The cleanliness is a plus, the product of many eco-conscious, unseen factors. CityCenter made environmental impact central to its design and operation, and most buildings boast one of the highest ratings of sustainability, the U.S. Green Building Council's Gold LEED certification. Happily, natural light and fresh air are abundant in most private and many public spaces.

Clean air was one welcome surprise in a three-day visit to the new hotels. (The 400-room boutique Harmon Hotel won't open until late this year). Though a similar design sensibility of modern, curvilinear shapes and earth-tone palettes unites the hotels, each offers distinct amenities and advantages. Here are the highlights from my recent stays at all three.

Vdara



With nary a slot machine on the property, entering the 57-story Vdara is practically serene. Had I booked one of the hotel's natural-gas-powered limos, I could have offset my airplane flight's carbon emissions. Yet my arrival was cushioned by the lobby's light perfume, a 32-foot Frank Stella artwork and a (mostly) competent staff seasoned after 16 days on the job.

Though it has a sizable spa, pool complex, restaurant, bar and nearly 1,500 suites, the hotel's orderly layout makes it easy to navigate. Originally designed as a condo hotel, the 500- to 1,650-square-foot suites have the most residential yet urban feel of the three hotels. Even in the smallest suite, there's room for a lush king bed, sofa bed, reading chair, desk, kitchen, dining table and a free-standing spa bathtub.
Vdara (an invented name) is one of the few upscale Las Vegas hotels hospitable to families. Spring for one of its 250 Panoramic rooms, and you'll get a four-person dining room table, a washer-dryer and full-sized kitchen appliances.

Vdara also may be CityCenter's best hotel for conducting business, given the guest rooms' generous work spaces, laptop safes, fast wireless access and media hubs that can connect an array of electronic devices to the flat-screen TV. Those features and access to the compact fitness center are covered by a $15 daily resort fee.

A pool deck offers a variety of smallish swimming/dipping spaces and views of buildings. Life is better indoors: Even the smallest, lowest-price rooms offer multiple, wired-for-technology work spaces. The wide array of green materials in the custom-designed décor shows that sustainable design doesn't always mean burlap and bamboo. Design firm BBG-BBGM used stone, wood and metal to create a durable, eco-friendly and more natural environment, said Julia Monk, managing partner.

Vdara, which is behind Aria, is removed from the intensity of the Strip and from most CityCenter visitors. A corridor connects the hotel to a monorail that zips to the Bellagio, Crystals and the Monte Carlo. Just don't expect to transfer easily to any other hotel in the complex. Despite the developers' boasts of the center's "connectivity and access," Vdara refused to move my luggage across the road to Aria. This eco-conscious hotel required that my guest and I retrieve the car, drive the confusing loops to Aria and park again, instead of allowing a bellman to push a cart half a block down the sidewalk.

2600 W. Harmon Ave., Las Vegas, (866) 745-7767, www.vdara.com
Doubles from $129
Check CityCenter Rates at Hotels.com by city, dates and number of guests

Aria Resort & Casino


Aria is a universe unto itself, though the curving steel-and-glass structure designed by Pelli Clarke Pelli Architects serves as CityCenter's crossroads. It's the destination for high-energy, high-priced activities such as gambling, drinking and dining.

Its two hotel towers, nine bars, 17 restaurants, 1,840-seat theater, gift shop, spa, pool and 300,000 square feet of meeting space mean you need never leave. Even if you're not a Vegas person who loves the roar of gambling energy, Aria offers a sophisticated new take on casino hotels that should appeal to the poker-phobic.

You need a flow chart to track the contributions of every designer and architect who gave the place its many distinct personalities. Some modern-day Mussolini must have made the hotel crews operate on time, which may explain how every restaurant was ready with menu samples at the Dec. 16 grand opening party. Most large hotel projects open in stages, yet all but Aria's pool and several Peter Marino-designed deluxe suites were ready for the gala, though paying guests, including me, arrived the next afternoon, its first open-to-the-public day.

Compared with Vdara, Aria's handsome guest rooms are less spacious and offer fewer in-room amenities, but the ivory, green and brown palette, walnut furnishings and chrome accents make it feel as luxuriously cozy. Aria switches up the predictable hotel room layout with built-in wood media centers (bring your own cords), automated curtains that wrap an entire wall and a large spa tub within the marble shower enclosure.

Day 1 revealed that the hotel's 10,000 employees are inexperienced. Few were well versed in the hotel's layout, fewer understood the room's high-tech features, and restaurant service was often awkward and slow. Service was almost absent in the 80,000-square-foot spa, where you may have to hunt for the coed Shio Salt Room and Ganbanyoku stone beds (heated granite slabs). Without a spa treatment, visiting the gym or spa costs hotel guests $30.

Still, the resort begs for superlatives, and earns a few, given that it's billed as the world's largest Gold LEED-certified building and has highly advanced in-room technology. A central control panel can open the windows, adjust the lights, temperature, TV, music and check flight information. Yet two engineers had to be summoned at midnight after the software crashed.

Despite its opening-day jitters, Aria's sophisticated design, cuisine, technology and commitment to environmentally sound practices set a new standard in hospitality and Vegas-style excess. Now, thanks to recycling programs, limousines fueled with compressed natural gas and ventilation married to slot machines that's built to clean and circulate the air, it's possible to enjoy excess responsibly.
3730 Las Vegas Blvd., Las Vegas, (866) 359-7757, www.arialasvegas.com
Doubles from $159
Check CityCenter Rates at Hotels.com by city, dates and number of guests

Mandarin Oriental


The happiest words ever spoken to an exhausted traveler are these: "Consider it done." The staff members at the Mandarin Oriental follow up those reassuring words with the kind of service that has nearly vanished from luxury hotels with staff cutbacks.

Service was prompt, personal and attuned to privacy on my visit, two weeks after its Dec. 4 opening. A nice touch: A valet closet opens to the hallway to allow staff members to deliver laundry, mail or packages without disturbing the room occupants.

As the most luxurious, nongaming hotel in CityCenter, the 47-story Mandarin Oriental brings new aesthetics and expectations to hospitality. Guests get stunning views from the 23rd floor check-in desk, which is flanked by a tea lounge, the Mandarin Bar and Twist, the only U.S. restaurant by Pierre Gagnaire.

Interior designer Adam D. Tihany created an elegant, intimate and, ultimately, escapist environment where guests can, he said, "have moments where you don't have to think about anything but enjoying yourself."
He delivered on that promise with the room design, a mix of maximum-impact materials such as marble shower tile, leather and shell headboards, chrome accents and velvet upholstery. Sliding panels reminiscent of a tea house move to conceal the bathroom windows and reveal a softly rendered portrait of an Asian woman.

The guest rooms and public spaces subtly reference Asian design with art and decorative accents -- paintings of kimonos, panels that slide like shoji screens, pendant lamps that resemble Japanese lanterns, and high-sheen built-in drawers that suggest the lacquer and tiers of Tansu chests.

This level of service and style comes with a price: Plan on spending $345 for the least expensive room, $30 for valet parking, $18 to steam a dress and $100 to visit the spa without scheduling a treatment. Massages are a minimum of 80 minutes and cost $260 on weekends. Yet the portions and quality of food at the MOzen Bistro yielded one of the best values in the complex. The menu's mix of Indian, Chinese and other Asian flavors in the entrees, such as a complex curry and rice or a rack of lamb, are mostly $25 to $38.

Guests also get indulgent little extras in the rooms: yoga CDs and a mat; abundant Schott stemware in the bar stocked with half-bottles of liquor; a safe with a jewelry tray; and a fully outfitted bathroom with a multi-nozzle hair dryer and a flat iron in a silver leather case.

The rooms are wired with a high-tech system that can automatically control the drapes, temperature, TV and more. With most of the glitches fixed, this system worked.

Tihany's modernized view of Asia is, indeed, an escape to an idealized existence. It's ideal for CityCenter, a place that raises the stakes on fantasy, luxury and, ultimately, the future of Vegas hospitality.

3752 S. Las Vegas Blvd., (702) 590-8888, www.mandarinoriental.com
Doubles from $345

Original Story: LA Times